Pattern cutting is my first love. It's what I actually trained in and I have been making my own patterns for as long as I can remember. Although it may seem like a massive leap in terms of making your own clothes. Making your own patterns is actually a lot simpler than you may think.
As with any skilled craft there are some tools and pieces of equipment that will make your life much easier. Here is my list of the essential pattern cutting equipment you absolutely have to have and those you may want to add to your wish list.
The Must Haves
Paper
This is the first on your list as without paper you have no pattern. In truth you can make a pattern from almost any pliable paper but proper pattern paper has the translucency to be able to see pattern markings underneath. It comes in plain and Dot and Cross versions. I use both and have no real preference. But I use dot and cross for teaching as you are able to clearly see right angles across the grid.
A lot of people use Swedish Tracing paper, a thin, translucent, tissue-like paper made from abaca fibres. It is pretty tear resistant and can be stitched though so great if you want to ‘tissue fit’ your patterns. But first drafts are much better on paper initially.
Sharp pencils
With many things in life there are usually more than one way to do things. But with pattern cutting there is only one type of pencil you should be using - and that is an H pencil. Either a 2H or 4H is preferable. The harder the pencil lead the more sharp and crisp the lines will be that you draw. Having soft woolly pencil lines can affect the accuracy of the pattern hugely overall as any discrepancies are multiplied over and over again. You can also use a propelling pencil to give a nice narrow line as well.
Sharpener or craft knife
A good sharpener is a must. Preferably a metal one with a replaceable blade. This is ideal as you need to have a sharp blade to cleanly cut through the wood in your pencil. A blunt sharpener will just drag and splinter the wood. Alternatively you can use a craft knife as that will give you more of an extended point to the lead.
Do make sure to keep your pencils safe as a dropped pencil can lead to broken lead internally making it really difficult to re-sharpen the pencil without the short bits of broken lead shedding.
Square or pattern master
This is another must have as a square corner is the foundation of all pattern cutting. Ensuring that two lines intersect at right angles will mean you have a symmetrical pattern. As we usually work on only half a pattern at a time any lines that join the centre front or back lines such as waist or necklines need to be at right angles so they will be the correct shape when the piece is mirrored.
So having a large set square or a Pattern Master will make squaring off any lines so much easier. I love my Pattern Master and have had the same one since I was a fashion student many years ago. This were only available from Morplan but it's definitely worth getting.
Long 1m ruler
A good long ruler is another must have as trying to slide a shorter ruler along the paper to draw a straight line will just not work. Having that long straight edge will give you an excellent base upon which to draft your pattern. I prefer a flat metal one but there are plenty of wooden ones out there too.
Paper scissors
A good pair of paper scissors are a much better alternative to your dressmaking shears! A pair that has a shorter blade will give you a more accurate way of cutting around intricate pattern pieces. You can always tie a piece of ribbon around the handles to differentiate them from your shears.
Masking tape
Low tack tape is a brilliant way of holding pieces of paper in place temporarily to check things. You can order specific types of tape, but I generally find the low tack tape from DIY stores does the job perfectly. Clear Magic Tape is popular too.
Pritt stick
I have named a specific brand here as I have found through experience that not all glue sticks are the same. Once you have checked the positions of your pattern pieces and want it to stay put, a good quality glue is important as it will not dry up and let the pieces come apart after a while. It also means you can iron over any joins unlike tape which can melt under the iron’s heat.
Tracing wheel
Not exactly essential to start with, but incredibly useful. A tracing wheel will allow you to transfer markings from a top layer of paper to the ones underneath it. I love it for marking the shaped ends of darts once they have been pleated out. You can then release the dart and the perforated angles of the seam allowance can be seen underneath. A good sharp one with nice fine points is better for going through multiple layers.
Ones for the Wish List
Pattern notchers
Another one for the Wish List. However, ONLY EVER CUT PAPER with your pattern notchers. The minute you put them anywhere near fabric they will become blunt and useless I am afraid. But these are wonderful at creating easy to see notches and pattern markings. I use them to mark the ends of darts and pleats by folding the paper at the point you wait to mark and then just nipping out a tiny semi circle from the paper. This leaves the perfect sized hole for popping a marker pen through.
Awl
This is another not strictly necessary bit of kit but one you find incredibly useful the more pattern cutting you do. It is great for pivoting out darts or other pattern pieces and for marking specific points. It has a sharp point at the end but is much thicker than a pin.
Hole Punch
This is definitely a Wish List item. I love mine as it has interchangeable dies to cut different sized holes depending on what you are marking. Similar to the notchers and awl, it will mark specific points. But it is especially designed for the job so will work with greater accuracy.
So you see the list of equipment is not too onerous and I would really encourage you to start drafting your own patterns. Start by watching the videos on How to Take Your Own Body Measurements and then have a go at making your own Skirt Block. You can find both of these in The Cutting Room.